Our journey accross Mukaishima and Innoshima islands

We arrive on Mukaishima around 2pm, the weather is nice and pleasant (around 25°C). The marks indicating the Shimanami Kaido route is visible as soon as we leave the ferry and splits into two. On one side, there is the recommended route, and on the other side, an intermediate-level itinerary.

We head towards the recommended route. This allows us to get an idea of what the recommended route is like, to test the bikes, and to see how fast we are going.
We quickly realize that it’s a smooth ride. It’s flat, the bikes are convenient. However, we are on the road (there is no separated lane here), but there are very few cars, and the few that overtake us are very considerate, leaving plenty of space as they pass. This will be the case throughout the journey, and it’s very much appreciated.

We stop regularly to take photos but also to readjust the bikes and position Nicolas’ camera to film the journey.
We quickly reach the first bridge. The announced slope is 3%, and we climb to the bridge without much difficulty. This ascent, like all the ones to come, is enjoyable. Everything is well laid out: there are spaces to stop and observe, many trees are planted along the road, which provides shade and coolness, a coolness that we appreciate despite being in the middle of October.
Once the climb completed, we join the cycle path of the first bridge which is located below the infrastructure. We can hear the cars and trucks passing overhead. It’s quite impressive but at least we don’t have to worry about the cars.

Ikuchijima and our refreshing break at Shimagokoro SETODA Honten

We arrive at the 3rd island and we decide to take the recommended route for several reasons.
The first is that a tourist info center is indicated on this route. It turns out that we won’t be able to find it but that’s a detail.
Also, before leaving, we inquired about our accommodation options. We were then told that Setoda Sunset Beach, located on this route, was a good choice.
Lastly, Ikuchijima Island is renowned for its high-quality lemons, and we hope to be able to enjoy them. We notice that Shimagokoro Setoda Honten, a store selling lemon-themed food, is also located on the route.

So we head in that direction. On one side, we have a view of the sea, and on the other, a view of the orchards.
We stop to buy a well-deserved lemonade at Shimagokoro Setoda Honten. It’s refreshing and for a few moments, it relieves us from the heat. The shop also offers many other lemon-based specialities, but we won’t be tempted for this time.

We then head to Setoda Sunset Beach. It’s very beautiful. The beach is heavenly and the gentle breeze there is very welcomed. However, despite looking around, we can’t find any accommodation. It turns out to be just a camping site where you can pitch your tent. We see several people doing so and we think they will have a great night. But that is not our case: we don’t have a tent, so we continue on our way.

We do a quick search on the internet and we see accommodations but only on the next island: we have no choice but to cross the 3rd bridge.
We pass at sunset and we couldn’t have dreamt of a better time to make the crossing!

Our night at I-LINK HOSTEL ＆ CAFE SHIMANAMI

We arrive at the 4th island around 6pm and head to the I-Link hostel ＆ cafe shimanami. It’s a hostel with a dining area and dorms. There’s still a bit of space left, and we didn’t expect there to be so many people outside of the peak season.

The dormitories are organized like a capsule hotel: each bed is neatly compartmentalized by walls and a curtain to close off its space. There are hangers to hang clothes and outlets to easily charge electronics. It’s simple but really well laid out.
There are also larger « capsules » with double beds or bunk beds. In these cases, the lockers are integrated into the capsule, which also has a small desk and a chair.

The bathroom and the toilet are extremely clean. The hostel provide all the necessary comfort with shampoo, shower gel, towels, slippers, pyjamas, cotton swabs, cotton pads, toothbrushes, toothpaste… In a nutshell, nothing to complain about.

Finally, a family mart is located across the street. Without hesitation, we head into the grocery store, which has a microwave to warm up the dishes we bought. We sit at one of the tables in the konbini. We appreciate these thoughtfully designed environments, especially since we are a bit tired from the day and are happy not to have to rush around.

We return to the inn to go to bed and we fall asleep like logs.

Our journey accross Ohmishima and Hakatajima islands

The sleep was very restorative: the dormitories were quiet and we were able to rest well.

It is only 8am and it is already quite hot outside. We head to the Family mart to buy our breakfast and eat it at the picnic table set up by the sea.

We use the tools provided by the hostel to adjust our bikes, and we fill our bottles with the lemonade offered by the establishment.

We take the shortest routes to cross Ohmishima and Hakatajima. The bridges are not high, and this beginning of the journey is a perfect warm-up.

Ohshima island: our detour at the Kirosan observatory park and the last bridge to reach Imabari

Arriving on Ohsima Island, we see on Google Maps that the Kirosan Observatory Park detour is highly rated and the associated photos are incredible.

We are perfectly on schedule, so we think we can take a detour.
The ascent starts at 5%, then 10%, and ends at 15%. We climb under the encouragement of the Japanese. Nicolas manages to reach the top without getting off the bike, but Eva and Kévin are not able to do so.

We are now a little over 300m above sea level. We no longer feel the wind, but the view is perfectly clear. We can observe the entire route taken, we see the bridges, the islands, the sea, it’s really worth a effort to be able to admire this view.

We descend very easily and in a hop, skip, and a jump, we are already on the last bridge. It is the longest and by far the most challenging. The ascent is finally done without too much difficulty, but it is once on the bridge that we have the most trouble moving forward. We have a nice headwind that bothers us a lot during the 6.4km crossing. This is usually the most impressive bridge. Cyclists take advantage of it to admire the view, but we cannot give you the same feedback as our minds were just focused on crossing it.

What is the Shimanami Kaido route ?

Above, we shared the route we took. However, there are different paths depending on your desires and your abilities.
Some paths take you on detours to see shrines, gardens. This adds distance but often involves just a little difficulty.
Other paths take you to beautiful viewpoints, but they require climbing. In this case, it’s better to have strong thighs and good cardio.
In general, staying on the outskirts of the islands is the easiest path: it’s flat and you’ll only need to climb before the bridges. If you venture deeper into the island, it becomes much hillier immediately.

Here is a first-hand account of someone who took a few detours to see the various points of interest offered and covered approximately 100km to do so: https://www.voyagesjapon.com/guide-du-japon/shimanami.html.

Here you can find the official route map: https://shimanami-cycle.or.jp/download/cycling/cycling_map_en.pdf
The blue dashed lines indicate the recommended route for the Shiminami Kaido; the yellow dashed lines indicate the intermediate route while the red dashed lines indicate the route for more adventurous cyclists. https://shimanami-cycle.or.jp/download/cycling/cycling_map_en.pdf

Are there any points to resupply along the way?

Yes, there are many points to resupply along the way. Like almost everything in Japan, everything is very well organized.

You will find convenience stores to buy snacks. You will often have free access to toilets at the same time.

You will also find water fountains in certain locations, and if you desire other beverages, you can either stop at one of the many beverage vending machines or at the grocery stores.

All these points are clearly marked on the official map that you can find via this link: https://shimanami-cycle.or.jp/download/cycling/cycling_map_en.pdf.

How does the bicycle rental works ?

Various rental stations are scattered throughout the route. This means that you can start more or less from wherever you want, and finish where you wish.

Below, you will find the Google Maps locations of the bike rental shops that we have used.

• Bicycle station at Onomichi: Onomichi port Bicycle rental terminal
• Bicycle station at Imabari: Imabari Cycle station

This map shows the bicycle stations available along the route.

From our side, we paid 3000 ¥/day/person. Prices regularly change, so make sure to verify that those communicated here are still up to date by using this link https://shimanami-cycle.or.jp/rental/english.

Another company offers a bicycle rental service: https://bicyclerental.jp/en/lineup/. Its services are currently more expensive but allow access to a wider range of bicycles. It should also be noted that this company currently only has two terminals: one in Onomichi, the other in Imabari. There is no other choice in this case but to make the entire journey.

Are there tolls to pay to cross the bridges ?

We did not have to pay any tolls, but I read on Japan Guide that this is a temporary measure to promote tourism. This measure is set to end on March 31, 2024, and its reinstatement would mean paying ¥500 for the entire toll road. I couldn’t find this information on other sites. If you are traveling after March 31, 2024, it may be worth revisiting the subject.
On the other hand, the first bridge from Onomichi (the last from Imabari), which leads to Mukaishima Island, is not accessible to cyclists. You will need to take the ferry from this point. You will pay for your ticket upon boarding. In our case, we had to pay 110 ¥ per person for the crossing (100¥ per passenger + 10 ¥ per bicycle). The crossing takes barely 5 minutes.

How long does it take to do the whole route ?

If you follow the recommended route, you will have to cover around 70km with a low elevation gain. The only incline you will encounter will be 3% at the entrance of the bridges and 5% at the entrance of the last bridge. The official website of the Shimanami Kaido indicates that for experienced cyclists, only 4-5 hours will be necessary; 5-6 hours for an intermediate level. These durations correspond to the minimum time you will need, but I believe that if you want to fully enjoy the experience, it is interesting to give yourself some extra time to take photos, eat local specialities, admire the viewpoints, stroll on the beach, look for a place to sleep… And on this point, only you know how much time you want to allocate for it.

Are there cycling roads all along the route ?

There are bike paths for most of the route. When there are none, you can ride on the road without any worry, as the Japanese are very respectful of cyclists and leave a significant safety distance. Otherwise, you can always ride on the wide sidewalks like the Japanese do.

What to do if I have a backpack that is difficult to carry while travelling by bicycle ?

You can do as we do and leave it in a locker at Onomichi, Fukuyama, or Imabari depending on your plans. It is also possible to have your luggage(s) being transported from one point to another if you do not wish to backtrack. Sagawa offers this kind of service, for more information you can click on the following link https://www.sagawa-exp.co.jp/stc/english/.

What are the public transports available from and between Onomichi and Imabari ?

There are bus and ferry systems between the islands. This allows for the possibility of stopping along the way; not making a round trip, or simply visiting the islands using these means of transportation.

Below you will find a map that I found on Japan Guide which is detailing the different options.

The « highway bus » that departs from mabari and arrives at Fukuyama takes 1h30 and costs 2400¥. Bus departs every hour.
The « highway bus » thst departs from Imabari eand that arrives at Hiroshima takea 3h and costs 4200¥.

You can easily retrive those information that will remain updated via Google maps or thanks to the info centers that you will find at Onomivhi and Imabari.